Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Sanakor plunge corset on a person

Today I took some pictures of my Sanakor corset in the garden.
The corset was worn by my sister Chiara.








Sunday, October 5, 2014

1901 Norah Waugh corset: paper mock up

Of course there are a lot of corset styles: georgian, victorian..., but the one that i love most is the edwardian one due to its particular silhouette, so, after my Sanakor plunge corset version, I decided to sew another edwardian corset. I was mostly inspired by this pic:


One of my favourite costume maker books is the famous Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh.


In this book there is a very interesting pattern belonging to early 20th century on page 84.


I attempted some times to sewn it but I always renounced to finish it due to the corset shape which didn't satisfy me.
Now, few days ago, I tried to do a paper mock up in order to change any pattern pieces and improve the corset silhouette. I was also encouraged by some bloggers creations for instance: SparklewrenFashion through Historydevil in the detailThe Aristocat.
So, here are some pics to compare the before and after.






I altered the original pattern in several points, so, to show the differences between the original one and mine, I drawn in red my pattern lines on the originals ones. If you see closely you can see them.


My hope is to realize it soon.



Thursday, September 11, 2014

Sanakor plunge corset

Two months ago I read an article, about a 1905 corset, on the website http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/.

Here is the article:http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-patterns/1900s-corset-patterns/521-the-sanakor-plunge-corset-1-part-1.

So, after drafting the pattern, I decided to sew it.
This is the final result:


It has 26 bones and it is composed by three layers of material: blue satin; white cotton; white satin for lining.
I changed the original corset boning channels position, and I constructed it as a 18th century stays by inserting bones between fabric layers,also I didn't add the bow on center front.
I didn't use a busk for the front because unfortunately I didn't have one.









It was a long time that I wanted to recreate the sanakor due to its beautiful and particular shape.
I'm very happy of the result.

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Marie Antoinette dress

It is a long time that i have in my mind  a court gown attributed to Marie Antoinette. The dress is in the Royal Ontario Museum's collection. There is also a video on you tube:


It looks amazig, it is embroidered in a spectacular way and the desing is fantastic.


I was inspired by it and I decided to create a late 18th century dress very similar to this one.
Unfortunately there aren't good quality pictures on the web, especially embroidery pictures are unavaiable.
Having a look of various websites, I had found only these low quality pictures :






I think that I will extrapolate a satisfactory embroidery pattern by copying from pictures and then I will transfer it on fabric. Dress pattern and understructure pattern(stays, panier,..) are readily available from my historical fashion patterns books.
Obviously my dress will be a little different from the original because the embroidery is a long and difficult work, instead I will improve bodice's shape because it seems so tubular (I suspect that maybe the dress would be worn with a stomacher), I have also some doubts on a so long train but... 
....we will see, I will decide that later.